Why Bulgari adores Rome, Dior dotes on Versailles, and Boucheron loves India
maisons are expressing their love of cities and cultures in commemorative
collections. Bulgari in New York presented archived, vintage and
privately collected items in “Bulgari + Rome: Eternal Inspirations”. The
exhibition highlighted classic designs that date back to the 1930s, including a
gold and diamond necklace inspired by the vaulted ceilings of the Pantheon, and
a bib necklace inspired by the Via Appia, one of the oldest and most important
roads in ancient Rome.
the B.zero1 collection are inspired by the grand Roman Colosseum; the Parentesi
necklace is derived from the capital’s travertine road stones; the entire
Divas’ Dream collection and its fan-shaped motif comes from the tiles that line
the walls at Caracalla’s thermal bath houses.
jewellery brands Dior and Boucheron revealed collections with pieces inspired
by their nation’s architecture and design. The splendour of Versailles inspired Dior high-jewellery
designer Victoire de Castellane to create earrings, rings and necklaces that
celebrated the palace and the French art of living.
Boucheron paid tribute to India, where Louis Boucheron, the son of
the maison’s founder, Frederic Boucheron, bought the Kashmir cabochon sapphire in 1909, a
gemstone that would later become a Boucheron hallmark. India’s maharaja of Patiala also arrived in Paris in 1928 with a haul of over 7,000
diamonds and 1,500 emeralds, and ordered Boucheron to set the stones into 149
dazzling jewellery pieces. The Bleu de Jodphur collection, divided into several
chapters, was a nod to India’s rich heritage. Inspired by
Jodphur, Boucheron’s director of creations Claire Choisne used sapphires and
diamonds to evoke the city’s blue and white architecture. The Jodphur Necklace
even features the unusual use of marble, taken from the quarry that supplied
the building of the Taj Mahal.
Boucheron reverts to its French roots with its 26 Vendôme collection, which
celebrates Frederic Boucheron’s vision, and the 157-year-old maison’s main
address since 1893. Three overarching themes make up the collection. One theme,
Architecture Inspirée, takes its starting point from a hôtel particulier -
private residence - near the Palais Royal, where the maison’s founders
established their business.
Particulier Necklace under that theme is a masterpiece that evokes the winter
views of the gardens through the arched windows. A 21.80ct yellow sapphire
shines like sunlight from the centre, while three rock crystal pendants are
used to recreate the view of the gardens. A myriad of diamonds forms deer,
trees, birds and clouds.
article is originally published on South China Morning Post